One of the movies that is usually on everyone’s best movie list is “Casablanca”, starring Humphrey Bogart, Ingrid Bergman, Paul Henreid and Claud Rains. Set in French Morocco during the early part of World War II, this dramatic film confronts us with Humphrey Bogart’s character Rick Blaine serving as a picture of America’s dilemma of whether or not to get involved in the war itself by helping his former lover, Ilsa and her husband Victor Laszlo. The movie won the Oscar for best picture, best director and best screenplay writing. It was also nominated for best actor, best supporting actor, best cinematography, best film editing and best music score.
With the outbreak of World War II, fashion design on the screen and in the country took on a more somber, less glamorous look, which is reflected in “Casablanca”. Famous designer Orry-Kelly created clothing for Ingrid Bergman that reflected a simple yet elegant wardrobe for women during those tumultuous times of the 1940’s. As fashion communications ceased during the war in Europe, American designed stepped up to create styles for women that were all their own.
When Rick see Ilsa for the first time in his club as she gets Sam to play “Time Goes By” again, she is wearing a solid white evening skirt suit with a gathered waistline collarless V-neck jacket along with a stunning diamond broach and matching bracelet. Even with no necklace, she is strikingly beautiful, catching Rick’s eye quickly.
Later, Ingrid’s character Ilsa comes back to the nightclub to ask Rick for help so she and her husband Victor can leave for America. She wears a strong-shouldered white coat that has three buckles at the waistline, reflecting her figure. With a clutch purse and a long scarf draping around her head and flowing behind down her back, she presents a dramatic and pure image in a minimalistic outfit that women during that time desired.
While in the marketplace, Ilsa is adorned with another fashionable, nautical themed dress. The white, square-shouldered sleeveless dress is accompanied with a striped blouse underneath as well as a wide-brimmed white hat and white low-heeled sandals. Square shouldered dresses, jackets and blouses were a trend in the 40’s that gave the body a triangular effect that accentuated small waistlines. This outfit was so striking on Ingrid Bergman in Casablanca that Edit Head used a similar dress in a later film by Alfred Hitchcock titled “Notorious”.
In another club scene, Ingrid Bergman wears a see-through lace overlay dress imprinted with an intricate leaf pattern. The dress also has a tied bow at an empire waistline and puffed sleeves. This overlay tops a white, flowing dress creating a sweeping look.
In one of the final scenes, Ilsa confronts Rick in his apartment above the club in an effort to get the letters of transit that will allow her and her husband to escape the country. She wears a printed rayon paisley patterned evening top with puffed sleeves a high neckline and long dark skirt. This outfit adds dramatic effect to their confrontation. In the 1940’s rayon was a major trend in women’s fashion because it gave women a built-in accessory by its variety of patterns during war rationing times.
The most iconic look of the film comes at its finale. Humphrey Bogart is dressed in a double-breasted trench coat, open and tied at the waist, while Ingrid Bergman wears a chic midi-skirt suit and a wide-brimmed hat. This outfit reflected the men’s wear style trend in women’s fashion. Slim-fitted jackets, collared coats and blouses were an example of this and became a staple of women’s clothing during the 1940’s.
Casablanca is a must-see movie in my book, not just because it is a timeless story about love, adventure and bravery; it is also full of great fashion design from a golden generation. It continues to inspire designers today.
